Let It Rise: Bread for Ancestors and the Dead

A staple of the human diet since time immemorial, bread in its many forms across the cultures of the world has been a gift for both the living and the dead. I will not be exploring the various kinds of breads our culture has in this one article; there are a myriad of examples to be listed and I still wouldn’t ever be done describing them all, so I shall focus on rather specific circumstances. Before I dive in, a few words as a primer. Bread holds special significance in Hellenic tradition to this day, regardless of the religious angle you’re approaching it from- Dodekatheism or Christianity. There exist breads made for sacred rites, there exist breads for mourning and simple breads for the farmer to take with as his lunch out to the fields. When one thinks of Greece, they justifiably will still think bread. Bread and cheese (or bread dipped in the brine thereof if you were less fortunate) was a struggle meal before it was a trend.

I was inspired to write this article in part due to a Twitter thread I posted, which in turn was inspired by my baking bread specifically to offer to Ancestors. The making and subsequent offering of cultural foods is a sacred ritual to me; investing time and attention into creating something that sings of your home and roots is a beautiful act of devotion. Ancestors are those Dead closest to you, they are devoted to you and you should in turn be devoted to them. You are one family, and you cannot heal if you’re existing separated. People -whether dead or alive- bond through food, and there is no food as widespread and versatile as bread. Unless they request otherwise or there’s an occasion calling for it, the bread I bake and offer to Them is a traditional Greek flatbread. It is a bread that’s easy to make, requiring few ingredients, not much time, much patience, love and herbs. A great many herbs- or just two if you’re boring.

Rosemary, or tree frankincense as it’s called in Greek, is an herb associated with the Dead due to its connections to memory and purity. Today, it’s often planted on graves for the very same reason. Thyme, named after its connection to emotion, is a mighty healer and associated with the Dead due to soothing the temper and cleansing the chest, the seat of the heart. Sprigs of it are placed on graves to appease the dead, especially if the deceased has been relentlessly visiting the living in dreams. I also add oregano for the taste, though it too has much history and power.

A series of articles could be written on the etiquette of offerings, and for that reason I will clarify that this is intended to be a shared meal and not strictly an offering to the Dead, which one would be prohibited from consuming. If you should like to pour libations, burn incense or light candles, you are welcome to. Depending on the occasion, I may simply light the beeswax candle(s) dedicated to Ancestors, or hold a ritual to formally invite them for a meal. Taking the time to honour your Dead in this way, bonding over a shared experience is priceless and indescribable. It’s also discreet and affordable, because I know not everyone’s lucky enough to be open about their faith and path.

The recipe goes as follows.

Ingredients:

-25 grams of yeast

-500 grams of flour

-300ml of warm water

-2 hefty pinches of sugar

-One pinch of salt

-One cupped palm’s worth of olive oil

-Rosemary & Thyme

Instructions:

To a large bowl, add water- it should be warm but not scalding or you’ll incinerate your poor yeast. Using a finger, you should be able to tell whether it’s too hot; if it’s uncomfortable for your skin to stay submerged, your yeast will suffer. You want your yeast happy or you’ll end up with a pile of sad goo. Whisking the water, add in your yeast and sugar. Whisk until they’ve dissolved. The sugar is food for the yeast. Treat your yeast like a toddler- they can have sugar but in moderation. This bread is not meant to be sweet, just two pinches will do. How much is a pinch? Ask Ancestors. This is a Greek recipe, you’re lucky there are any measurements at all here. Leave the bowl in a warm place for three to five minutes, covered by a towel. This rest allows the yeast to bubble and foam up, exuding that characteristic scent. Mix the salt in with the flour and add it to your liquids in increments, stirring with a metal spoon as you do so. Add in the rosemary and thyme. Again, no measurements- follow your heart. Holding your palm over the bowl, cup your hand and pour the oil in, drizzling it over the dough. Mix and then knead. Take the dough out of the bowl and on your table, and knead the dough until it is smooth.

Oil another bowl and add in your dough, swirling it around so the oil may coat it. Let it rise in a warm spot for about an hour to an hour and a half. Always cover the rising dough. Once your dough has risen, poke a finger in it. If the dough stays firm, it's ready for the next step. Take it out of the bowl and separate in two. Locate a baking sheet lined with oven paper and place your dough on there, which you then flatten out using your hands ONLY. Banish the thought of a rolling pin. Give them an oval shape, but bear in mind a crucial detail. If you’d prefer your bread crunchy on the outside but light and fluffy on the inside, make your dough thicker. If you want the bread absolutely crunchy, flatten the dough out. Brush with water, sprinkle with more herbs. Add sesame as well if you’d like, and gently press the dough with the flat of your palms so the herbs and sesame seeds stick to your bread. Cover your soon-to-be breads with towels and allow them to rest in a warm place for 30-45 minutes or until they’ve doubled in size.

While your dough rises, preheat your oven to 200 degrees Celsius, or if you’re unlucky enough to be American, 392F. Once the second rise is complete, you get to poke holes to your heart’s content. Use your fingers and gently puncture the dough all the way to the bottom. Your dough will deflate, do not panic. This is the way it must be. Set your oven to fan mode, insert the sheet and (im)patiently wait for 25-30 minutes to pass.

Congratulations, you have made bread.